How to use mouldings


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How to Attach Mouldings

Please see this video about adhering mouldings.

Please see this blog for information about what glues you can use.



  • If the piece you are adhering to is unpainted, make sure it is clean and dry and then adhere the moulding directly onto a flat area.
  • Make sur the back of the moulding and the area it will be glued to are not perfectly smooth and glossy – rough it up with some 120 – 180 grit sandpaper.
  • If the piece you are adhering to is already painted, just give the area a light key with 120 – 240 Grit sandpaper before applying.
  • DO NOT stick directly onto chalk paint as the bond is unlikely to remain secure. Always make sure you seal the paint first, then give a light key & then adhere.
  • Use masking tape to create a mask around where the moulding will sit. This assist in applying the glue to the correct area and will ensure any glue that may seep out can be removed easily.

This will differ depending on whether you are using a heat-bendable “hard” moulding or a flexible “soft” moulding. For concise information about all the glue types, see this blog for more detailed information.

Resin Mouldings (“hard” or heat-bendable):

  • 2 part epoxy glue for fast adhesion. Make sure you key the back of the moulding a little with sandpaper. This will produce a slightly rough surface that the glue can grip. Use tape or a clamp to hold the piece in place while the glue cures.
  • Another fast adhesion method is using a cyanoacryate/accelerator system such as the Bob Smith Industries Cyanoacrylate Glue range, or Everbuild Mitre Fast Kit.
  • Construction adhesive (for example no nails).
  • Hot glue gun, though do be careful (have a tub of cold water on hand for dunking if you get glue on your fingers) and make sure you don’t apply too much glue as it can cause bulk behind the moulding. Be sure to use a high quality hot glue as cheap ones can peel off, and key each surfac to be glues well as hot glue does not like sticking to smooth surfaces
  • PVA or Wood Glue is great, but you will need to clamp or tape the moulding in place until the glue dries.
  • Contact Adhesive is useful, especially for mouldings that you need to bend and that are being installed onto an as yet unpainted surface. Make sure you use one that can be reactivated with heat (such as Evostick 528 or Shoemaker’s barge). This will enable you to reactivate the glue as you reheat the moulding if the moulding does not quite fit the contour when you apply it.
  • For smaller pieces, you can use superglue (cyanoacrylate glue). For larger pieces, this is an expensive option.

Flexible “Soft” Mouldings

  • If you are using flexible mouldings on a hard surface, please use the same adhesion instructions as for resin mouldings (above).
  • When using flexible mouldings on a flexible surface (eg accessories or costume) contact adhesive (such a Evostick 528 or shoemaker’s glue/barge) or a flexible silicon glue (eg E6000 or clear silicon adhesive/sealant) is recommended.

How to Shape & Bend Mouldings

Please go to this blog for comprehensive instructions on bending mouldings, or watch this video.

How to Paint Mouldings

  • Apply 1-2 coats of paint with a soft paint brush after you attach your item to your project. You can also use spray paints too.
  • Some may have air bubbles due to heavy details. These can be filled with any type of filler, if needed, before painting. But paint does cover lots of these tiny ones. When necessary, I use a 2 part plastic filler (such as is available at automotive supplies). 
  • Please see this blog about different paint techniques to try out.
  • These can be painted with most types of paint – acrylic, chalk and mineral paint spray paint, and enamels.


  • If you are interested in achieving beautiful patinas on your mouldings, I have written a blog all about how to make your own metal powder paint and use household chemicals to oxidise them. You can read it here.

How to Install a Light Switch Surround

  • Please only attempt to fit your light switch surround if you are confident that you are able to isolate the power supply to your light switch as we cannot be held liable for any personal injury claims or claims for compensation due to user error.

You can watch a video about this here.


1 – First of all, for your safety please isolate the power to the lighting circuit. This can usually be done by switching off the circuit breaker for your lighting circuit on your main fuse board.


If you are unable to locate the fuse for your lighting it may be necessary to call in an electrical professional, however most modern fuse boards are clearly marked and easily switched off.

2 – Once the power to the light fitting is switched off, remove the screws on either side of the light switch. 

3 – Detach switch fitting from the wall. If you find that the light switch is slightly stuck you should gently pry one corner to release it from the wall. BE CAREFUL NOT TO PULL or you may detach the cabling.

3 – Slip the light switch through the centre of the light switch surround holding the light switch at a diagonal angle to the frame so that you are sliding the switch through from corner to corner.

4 – Re- align the switch and reinsert the two screws that hold the light switch in place.

5 – Switch the power back on and test that the lights work as they should.

If everything works fine, you’re done! If for some reason the lights don’t work, re-­isolate the power supply, remove the switch once more and ensure that no wires have worked loose during the fitting procedure.

Note – in most cases, you do not even need glue. The light switch plate will hold the surround on by pressure once you tighten the screws. So yes, if you are renting, you will not damage the wall, and you can take it with you if you move house.

How to Install a Knob Pull

For lightweight drawers and cupboards that are not used regularly, you can probably get away with using a strong glue to attach them to your project with. Please see “How to attach your mouldings” above.

  • When you order handles you have the option to add a bolt set.
  • If you are not using a bolt set, you can use a cyanoacrylate glue, construction adhesive, epoxy glue, PVA or any other strong glue. This will be adequate for small and lightweight drawers and cupboards with low use.
  • For heavier use, you will need a bolt. Please use the video below for installation advice.
  • Please note – if the bolt is too long, cut it BEFORE installing it, using a bolt cutter of hack saw. Then make sure that the cut end is the end that sits inside the knob pull.


  • Treat mouldings in the same way that you would the furniture you have attached them to.
  • A mild detergent is usually adequate.
  • Gently wipe them using a soft, damp cloth.
  • Accidents happen, but it’s OK! Resin mouldings are very easy to repair. Just use a little cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) to repair the moulding before application.
  • Also, you can simply apply without repairing – once it’s in place and painted, you’d never know. If there is still a visible crack however, you can fill with a little filler before painting. Small cracks just add to the aged look anyway.

Exterior Use

If you would like to use your mouldings outside, use either a weather proof paint, or a coat of varnish to protect them from the rain, or both for extra protection.

Make sure to seal the edges well, and use an exterior adhesive. Exterior construction adhesives and silicone adhesives will allow for a bit of flexibility, which is especially useful on surfaces that will expand and contract according to the weather conditions.

I have covered everything here, but if you have any more questions about how to use mouldings, please do get in touch. You can also join the Chic Mouldings Facebook group for advice and inspiration.